Sunday, December 7, 2025

1 December 2025 Paphos: Museum at the Monastery of Saint Neophytos the Recluse

 


Our 2 euro entrance fee also included the on site museum.  There were lots of portraits of Neophytos, religious paraphernalia, old maps that included Cyprus, earthenware jugs and much more.  Not all the items had English descriptions.  Those that did had very small font and were located low down for the four foot crowd.


These are from more modern times where ostentatious displays by the clergy were accepted


Wood carving at its height


We estimated that it would have taken a full year to stitch this full size shroud


Swing the incense 


Byzantine music


Pick your bling


A very detailed icon


And the silver front-piece for it


Most precious


The Abbot's staff


Cyprus is located below Turkey


An entire row of these earthenware jugs were in the museum


The Cyprus maps get more detailed as time passed


Looks to be Phonecian or Egyptian


Local honey, vinegar and olive oil


We stopped on the top of the ridge at a little turn off that doubles as a "cat park"


Sitting in the crook of the tree


Back down the hill we go


We kind of like it too


Found another new grocery store




It has been 3 years and 179 days since we began our Migration

Saturday, December 6, 2025

1 December 2025 Paphos: Monastery of Saint Neophytos the Recluse



Saint Neophytos the Recluse lived to be 80 years old way back in the 1100's.  Upon turning 18 he secretly traveled to a monastery on Mount Koutsoventes stayed there for 7 years, where he learned to read and write.  It is estimated that he wrote over 5000 pages of hymns, odes, homilies and letters written to the faithful.  Over 1000 pages have survived and are located in the University of Edinburgh.   He wanted to travel to the Holy Land to find a desert where he could become an ascetic hermit and after his service at the monastery the abbot gave him his blessing.  For 6 months he sought just the right place searching near Jerusalem and north to Jordan.  God told him that this was not the right place so he returned to Cyprus.  Here he regrouped at the monastery and researched all the deserts to try to determine which one God was directing him to.  He set out again to seek the right desert but he was jailed in the port of Paphos as the guards thought he was a fugitive. When he got out of jail, in 1159, he took to the hills in Cyprus and found a small natural cave.  This must be the desert that he was seeking. He lingered there for a while to make sure that the area was deserted and quiet.  Once we was sure that no one was around he started to enlarge the cave to make room for a tiny chapel, his hermitage cell with a stone bench, a stone writing table and a tomb area for his remains when he died.  Word got out that a holy man was in the cave and many came to visit and seek guidance.  Eventually he selected a few of the seekers to become his disciples but never allowed more than 18.  He and his disciples went about building a monastery near the cave which took 18 years.  While building, his original cave was decorated with paintings in the Byzantine style.  In 1191 Cyprus was captured in the third crusade, many of the Orthodox clergy were banished by the invading papists and the population was forced to become Roman Catholics.  Cyprus would be ruled by foreign powers for the next 704 years.  These various overlords included the Knights Templars and the deposed King of Jerusalem.  In 1196, at the age of 58, he was chosen by the pope to be the spiritual leader of all of Cyprus.  He had to balance his devotion to the Orthodox church, his vow to stay in his cave with the expectations of the catholic pope.  These additional duties were taxing and one day he grabbed a ladder and climbed up from his cave to create a new cave to dwell in.  After 40 years in the first cave, he lived in a new cave in total silence for another 15 years.  He knew the time of his death and gave explicitly detailed instructions for his burial in the first cave.  It was his wish to have the cave's opening be covered leaving no trace that could be seen from the outside.  It remained sealed for 536 years until 1750 when a monk discovered the cave in the rock wall.  When the abbot and others opened the tomb it was filled with an indescribably sweet fragrance. 


We are climbing up from sea level



The road is hugging the cliffside


A church on our way


Lots of evergreens in the parking lot


The monastery dorms


A gate leading to the citrus groves and the garden


The sea off in the distance


The entry into the sanctuary


Off to the caves


The dome of the church is showing


The original cave is behind the arches and the secondary cave is up higher


A stairway to where?


A tiny shrine


Time to climb the stairs


These folks had cat food in their car


We are up at the main level looking back at the church


The path to the upper cave is closed off


In we go, but no photos are allowed


I followed the rules but these photos were on the interweb


So I copied them to show the paintings in the interior


Saint Neophytos is included in the depictions of many biblical scenes


Notice the window up top


Another cool window letting light illuminate the angel 


Here he is shown with two angels 


All Saints row


We are back out and looking up at the spiral staircase that  leads to the upper level


Time to head over to the church and monastery 


Houses are built across the ravine


Very fancy houses at that


A ship wreck off in the distance


Another Orthodox church up in the top of the ridge


Fire control hoses


A stone bridge


From 1879


The cats are full and sitting up on the roof


There were citrus trees and a working garden


The entry way


A gnarled olive tree


He is showing everyone of his 80 years


Dorm rooms for the monks


A quiet reflection before returning to his room


Golden portraits


A spike covered door knocker


These two headed birds must have a hard time deciding where to fly


As the sun plays hide and seek with the clouds the sea shines brightly


The gates


This was the sigh leading to the church at the top if the ridge


Cats!




It has been 3 years and 179 days since we began our Migration