Wednesday, July 30, 2025

19 July 2025 Mt. Hagen: Another Early Morning Bird of Paradise Quest

 


The routine continues, 4:30 alarm, 5:00 breakfast, 5:30 in the car, 6:00 hiking uphill, 6:30 blown away by the scenery!  The star of this location was the the Lesser Bird of Paradise.  It was calling nonstop from the time we arrived.  When the sun was up and shining on the trees, it showed itself to us.  In fact we saw three or four of them.  Once again we attracted a crowd, two of the actual landowners and two more gentlemen that were hoping to cash in as well.  Wilson did his standard diplomacy while we watched the birds and it was all settled peacefully.  Ken made a new friend who stuck by his side for most of the time we were there.  We saw lots of birds but only three new ones for my list.  We were slated to visit another site but two of the prominent brothers in this village were fighting with each other. Wilson though it best to let them simmer down so we skipped this location. We were treated to a pop-up market at the end of the trail.  Several families had laid out their hand made bilum bags and other craft items.  Ken bought enough for all his girls and I bought two bags and a hat. On the way back we were stopped at a "seat belt" check-point aka a shakedown.  Since our car contained foreigners the process took longer than it normally would.  We were driven to the bottom of the hill and dropped off.  Wilson and the driver had to go back to the checkpoint and  negotiate the bribe.  Ironically a different truck drove up with people riding in the back, no seatbelts there!  One of the folks in the back gave the policeman a money filled handshake and they were immediately waved through the checkpoint.  At our drop off point a local rugby team was asking for donations.  We were so exciting to them, they had to give up the fundraised and they came over to see what / who we were.  It was a great interaction and we found about about their team and where they play.  The river we were standing by was fast and rocky a class 2 or class 3 level of difficulty.



Almost to the top and the sun is still not up yet


Mists rising


A very large river in the valley


After the mist rises the smoke from the breakfast fires begin


A primitive bridge


In position


Glorious view


Black-faced Cuckooshrike


Long shadows


Tall mountains off in the distance


The Lesser Bird of Paradise LB#1


Starting the display


Black Kite in a tree looking for a snack


White Wing Robin trying not the be that snack


An entire flock of Lorikeets


Love this landscape


New Guinea White Eye


Look close, in a small depression up towards the top is an isolated cabin


Sahul Brush Cuckoo LB#2


This is an oddity, I though it must be an owl but it is a big seed pod.  I believe Jun said an "ant tree"


Long Tailed Shrike


Mountain Swift LB#3


A Cassowary headdress


There was a mini market set up for us as we came off the mountain


The grave sites are pretty elaborate


No seatbelts here!


A heart warming scene showing that at least one town wants to control the litter problem


Wilson took us off on a detour to see something special


A Dwarf Cassowary!


Opay is 30 years old and was rescued as a chick.  


Still a dangerous bird and it has gotten out twice to attack people that it did not like


We were friendly enough to get a low rumble greeting


A real treat


Another rescued creature, the common spotted cuscus 


Local artifacts for sale


Too many animal products so we did not buy


The man who is responsible for saving these animals.  He moved to PNG when he was five and is now a machinist.


New hybrid huts have a bottom layer of galvanized tin and then the top layer of thatch


Driving along a big river


A seatbelt checkpoint....aka a fundraiser


But here is a real fundraiser


A local rugby team is needing sponsors


While we wait for the "fine" to be worked out we are dropped off at this river crossing


It looks canoeable, if there were canoes to be had


The guard rails have been removed, most likely a local building project has then now


This is the big fancy house of the man who is rich enough to have 10 wives


A few more hybrid roofs


This black kite thought the red bag piece of litter was something to eat


Time to get out of the road


The actual Mt. Hagen





  It has been 3 years and 42 days since we began our Migration