We got back to the lodge and saw that the party from China has set up their big cameras in the back by the feeding station. Each one had two cameras on tripods and apparently they had been there all day. We were going to go out to a mumu. a traditional cooked in the ground meal. We did not know any of the details so it was all a surprise when we arrived. It was another technical hike and John the local guide and a resident of this village broke off a sapling and made me a impromptu hiking pole. We walked along a fast flowing stream that we could hear all the way along out trek. There was a gate at a very narrow part of the trail and a passageway through some moss covered rocks. We continues for a half mile until we reached a huge waterfall. Here there was a wooded bridge that was so sketchy that John went to the center of it and jumped up and down vigorously. Maybe it was a stress test to assure us that it would be safe to cross, or maybe it was to reassure himself. This led us to a viewing platform directly in front of the waterfall. This waterfall was towering. 60 feet tall with three or four branches splitting up as they cascaded down the rockface. Ken walked down to the pool at the base of the waterfall. John came back and told us it was time to see the makings of the mumu. When we arrived there was a hole in the ground, a pile of wood and a pile of lava rocks. They started a fire, let it blaze up when they put the rocks in, once it died down to coals they took the lava rocks out and started layering banana leaves, larger leaves, ferns, chicken, cabbage, sweet potatoes, taro roots and then the lava rocks. The rocks were got the ashes blown off and any dirt was brushed off. Then the big leaves were piled up on top. Finally a fabric square was placed on top to keep any of the dirt from getting in. All hands were on deck then the dirt went on top. Sealing it up fully was very important and spare leaves, dirt and pine needles were stuffed into any weak spots. Soon the seal was complete and the pile of dirt was just that, no smoke, no steam, just a primitive oven baking chicken, starches and greens. While the food was cooking we went up to watch the ceremonial outfitting of the young ones. John's brother came down from the village with his family. All the kids were introduced as first born, second born and so on. John had three sons and two daughters. The sons were first born, second and third while the daughters were fourth and fifth. John's brother had two sons and his second born was being outfitted into the ceremonial garb. Johns second born was also getting dressed and for both of them this was their first time. All of the traditional gear is owned by the ancestors and so it is treated with great respect. Each item was carefully packed away. It took almost an hour to get into the clothes, get their faces painted and learn the traditional march. They had three or four passes with ample input from the elders between each pass. They eventually got a it down and had a good run. Once the food was cooked John divvied up a portion for everyone that was there. Our portions were supersized and we left some back. Some of the kids came over to where we were sitting and scooped the leftovers up right away. We headed out soon after that and while we were waiting for the driver Ken got his hair braided by the ladies at the side of the road.
Equipment overload
No wonder they all stayed at the lodge all day, who could carry all this gear?
Butterfly
Friendly Fantail LB#4
John obtaining traditional materials
Chalk for face painting
"Rock On" on rock!
Way up high is the village
John opens the gate
Time to pose with my new bilum bag
Ken blends in completely in this narrow rock path
In the passageway
The location of our "show"
Sketchy bridge for sure
The top half of the falls
We made it over. john insisted on helping us over
Ken opts for the visit to the bottom of the falls
The second born helps guide him
They made it
This picture shows the scale of the falls. If the man in the yellow hat is 5 feet tall. Five of him would not reach the top so I estimate this half to be 30 feet
The waterfall is really just drop after drop of water, even though it looks like a continuous stream of water
Gushing
Mosses love this place
We could feel the spray of the water
Getting the mumu ready
Start a fire in the hole
Build it big
Add lava rocks
Let the fire burn down
Just coals now
Remove the rocks
Prepare the leaves that will cradle the food
Line the hole with leaves
A very thick layer of leaves
Next come a second type of leaf
Each leaf is placed carefully
Sweet potatoes, taro and chickens
Ferns, cabbage, chicken, sweet potatoes and yams all get placed and then rocks on top
The ashes and stray dirt were blown off of the rocks and the rocks were grabbed with improvised stick-tweezers
More rock placement
Then the big leaves are placed on top
More and more layers
A piece of fabric
Then the dirt
Now we wait
They take pictures
We take pictures
Jun gets in the act
The spirit totem gets in the act
Out come the stone ax
Held together with wrappings
Stone on one end
Wood on the other
And another ax
All of these items belong to the ancestors and everything was carefully wrapped
Crocodile skin, arm bands, and
Part of the wrapping around the waist
Pendants for around the neck
Head dresses made from whole Bird of Paradise pelts
Another feathered head dress
A small croc
A spotted quoll
The second head dress
the head and beak is still there
Everything is unloaded
Placed out for easy access
In the mean time Ken is entertaining everyone else
First the waist
Cinch it tight
Then woven tree bark fabric
John's wife and daughters, fourth and fifth born
Leaves in the back
A het and pendants around the neck
A wooden piece down the back
Making charcoal to paint the face
John's brother dressed his second born son
John dressed his first born son
The Bird of Paradise topper
Two brothers together
First born son with the totem
First the charcoal
Carefully applied
He had to get up in the nostrils with the charcoal
Now the white chalk
Perfect
Armed with ax and spear
Next one is ready
Ouch, a spear through the nose!
A great transformation
I think they are having fun, it is their first time in the ancestors clothes, some adjustments were needed
Two ax Ken
Wild man of PNG
Now they need to learn the proper marching technique, lots of coaching from the sidelines
Looking quite fierce
Smiles would ruin the look
I get the ax and Ken gets the spears
More folks came into the picture
And more folks
Finally the whole family got into the picture! Jun said he was going to get this picture printed on canvas and bring it back to the family in October
Time to march or to settle a village dispute
The dirt comes off
Very carefully
Then the leaves
Time for mumu lunch
The items are separated
Then John makes individual portions and passes them out
Everyone gets something, i really liked the flavor of the ferns
Back across the various constructions
Ken got a braid from the ladies on the side of the road
