Monday, July 28, 2025

18 July 2025 Mt. Hagen: Climbing the Mountain in the Dark to the Tonga Trail

 


Alarm at 4:30, breakfast at 5:00, depart at 5:30 start climbing at 6:00, continue climbing in the dark get to the top in twilight light.  Last night I asked about the trail conditions, Jun answered in his understated Japanese way, a bit wet and steep in parts.  The translation would be muddy, rocky, small streams of water to cross, huge landslide to climb over, even the locals will slip and fall.  Since I did not have the translated version I wore my slip on Merrell shoes which were not the correct shoes to be wearing.  I did not have my flashlight either, I had left it in the room.  It was next to my bed since it is hard to remember where everything is when it is dark. The first night is the hardest.  Since I did not bring the flashlight with me, the hiking was hard in the dark and was like using a strobe light to see.  Wilson had a bright light in his hand as he walked and as he swung his arms so I would only get a flash of light on his downstroke.  I could then take a few steps before it was too dark to see.  Eventually I had to call a halt so I could catch up.  At this point we sent Ken to the front and I walked behind him so we both had light.  Unfortunately this may have caused us to miss the best path and inadvertently walk a trickier path.  Oh well. no worries.  We climbed 700 vertical feet in 3/4 of a mile which is not all that impressive, but add the darkness, wet and slippery terrain and it felt like an epic trek.  About half way up it got light enough to forgo the flashlights and we saw the large landslide area that had covered the road that once led up to the village.  Towards the end of the top side of the landslide there was a small stream with rocks placed strategically to walk over. A 4 inch diameter, 4 foot long log was placed just downstream from the rocks.  The next to last rock was not firmly placed and it rocked as I stepped on it. This caused me to loose my balance, I then tried to step on the log which was slippery as well as loose.  Next thing I know I am ass over teacups and going down.  I landed flat on my back in the muddy stream.  Ken was at my side almost immediately grabbing my arm.  I thought he may have been overprotective but he was concerned that I was getting too close to the drop off behind me.  I could not see the drop off from my vantage point so I am very thankful for his help.  By this time our eyes were adjusted to the dark and we could head all the way up.  We staked out two areas for birding a vista to the north and one to the South East.  I heard a Papuan Grassbird and Jun and I called it up out of the tall grass.  We heard some squealing up at the village and soon a group of folks came down the path with a pig on a rope.  Then I saw a Black-Billed CuckooDove and Jun got it into the spotting scope.  Jun next saw a White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike and we saw it through the scope.  Meanwhile Wilson had been watching the SE view and let out a cry, Bluebird, Blue bird, Bluebird of Paradise!  We ran up the hill but it was far away so we ran closer and then closer still.  What a beautiful bird!  When we got back The man who lives down at the base of the trail and Wilson's brother were all there.  I spotted another bird and snapped a picture.  Jun identified it as the bird formerly known as the Superb Bird of Paradise.  We had to maneuver about to to get the right shot but when we did the bird was displaying.  
while we were watching this bird two more flew right in front of us.  Then we headed back.


I stopped to take a picture once the light got bright enough to see


We took a breather after I stumbled


From the top it was magical


The fog rising from the valleys was very special, Ken Jun and Wilson are down below


One of two vantage points that we staked out


Wilson has the spotting scope


Birding Buddy Bonding


Across the river valley


My muddy raincoat


Jun staked out this area and Wilson went uphill a bit firther


The sun is actually up


A taro field


The first bird of the day the Papuan 
grassbird LB#1


Beautiful sunrise


Time to check in with Jun


The sun is getting higher and so to is the fog


A hut that is up on top with us


Ken peeking out from up the topside lookout with Wilson


Breathtaking


The mist leaves its mark


Hello, flower


Here comes a few folks and the pig.  Wilson's brother is amongst them so he stops for a chat


Black Billed Cuckoo-Dove LB#2


White Bellied Cuckoo-Shrike LB#3


Jun was hot on the spotting scope!


Wilson called down to us that  he had spotted a Blue Bird of Paradise.  I pointed my camera and saw nothing.  Look at the bottom right on the thin branch is a dot, that is our bird


We packed up the spotting scope and scurried past the hut and over where the trail hugs the hill where the landslide was and took another series of photos we could now hear him calling


That was not enough so we went another 50 meters and set up again.  Here we were able to get colors and see the trailing wires of his tail feathers.  The Blue Bird of Paradise LB#4


Most folks are barefoot and human feet develop differently without shoes


The sun is out in force


Left to right, the man who lives at the base of the mountain, Ken, Wilson's brother and Wilson


I snapped this shot and Jun looked at me kinda funny.  He says this is a Superb Bird of Paradise!  So off we go with the spotting scope


It was hard to see from downhill so we all sprint to the uphill location


A much better angle.  This is the bird formerly known as the Superb Bird of Paradise, now known as the Greater Lophorina LB#5


Score, it is displaying!


New Guinea White Eye LB#6


A cool flower


Scuttling around in these red flowers was a Elfin Myzomela LB#7


A closer look at this fast bird


Not a crime scene, just betel nit spit


Black-headed Whistler LB#8


Heading back down in soggy shoes, I wonder what fungus will grow on me?


This one log had three types of fungus


A beautiful green


These just look tasty


The fate full rock and branch, one two punch that sent me flyoing


The drop off that I did not drop off


This looks like an orchid...I wonder


When we passed this hut in the morning the smoke was billowing out of the top and through the charred thatch


A lily


Time for a new hut


The bridge over the river that we were above


Mr. Pig waiting for a ride


More traditional huts


Wrecks dot the side of the road


  It has been 3 years and 41 days since we began our Migration