Thursday, April 24, 2025

22 April 2025 Salerno: Into Amalfi We Go

 


 Lemons lemons lemons!  Actual lemons plus lemon themed merch, ceramics, narrow passageways, restaurants and shops sprinkled throughout the town. We had no real plan for our exploration so we headed up the first narrow passageway we found and wandered.  One thing that was a constant is that any direction that we walked was uphill.  As we made it further in to the town, we decided to go to the Paper Museum, Museo de Carte.  On the way we heard the sound of running water.  We were not next to a stream so we poked around looking for the source of the sound.  As it turns out the stream was running underneath the street and the sound came from open grates in the street.  Waterfalls cascaded from the sides of the ravine that we were walking along.  The paper museum was tiny and we drooled over the fancy notebooks and notepads made with hand tooled leather covers and hand made paper inside.  We did not splurge on any of these items.  We continued further up the ravine with the steep rocky cliffs rising up on either side.  There was a sign for a restaurant, but by the time we reached it we found that it was closed.  We had to laugh at the signs at the restaurant that were in "English." So we turned tail and headed back down into town to find some lunch.  We took our time megandering all the way.  Our lunch spot had spaghetti in lemon sauce and an anchovy and capers pizza.  We ordered an appetizer of anchovies marinated in fennel and oranges.  Lunch provided ample opportunities for people watching as a sample of the entire world walked by.  After we ate we walked down the main street popping into shops for some tea towels, an Amalfi canvas bag, a ceramic donkey pendant and a hollowed out lemon filled with lemon sorbet.  The street was filled with people and the occasional car.  These cars had great difficulty in getting anywhere.  We passed the church and eventually got to the pier.  We were a half hour early for our departure time but there was already a long line.  We got into line anyway thinking that we probably would be at the front of the line for the next ferry to load.  But somehow all the folks managed to get on this ferry.  We were even able to get seats together up on the top floor.  In line, we talked to the folks that we had seen several times in Salerno.  We called then the Toronto people as they carried a Toronto public library bag.  We also got to talk with two gals from Minnesota on the ferry ride.


Looking up at Amalfi


We walked along the waterfront first


Our ferry


A thrilling spiller


Gates to the water


A grand hotel


Stacked houses


A very large mountain off in the distance


A furry greeter at the door to the restaurant


Roses


Many inviting passageways 


The patron saint of citrus


Octopus 


Cuttlefish


One of many shrines


Of course a custom painted ceramic sigh for the hotel Amalfi


Possibly not seaworthy


Where will these passages lead us?


Wash day


The door is open...


This tree was spectacular


One very serious tea set


Vintage ceramic figurines


A old time waterwheel


Waterfalls ready to run the wheel


Love this tree


The ravine is closing in on us


Tiny cars are a must


The smaller the better


A nice mural in another closed restaurant


Another waterfall


When the water rises this anchor is needed


Several very large buildings may have been mills of some sort


A beautiful setting


The bluffs are leaning over the paper museum


Explaining the tour


Hand made paper


Screens used in the making of the paper


Seriously big paper press


A collection of the tools of the trade


A model of the paper drying racks


A pencil drawing of the coast


In the paper museum a wide variety of items were for sale.  These are stamps used to press designs into the hot wax.


So many options for fountain pens


Tips, ink and bodies for fountain pens


Rugged land ahead


Hardy folk settled here


"Toilet your Excursions?" a cryptic message


We would be eating here if only they were open


Terraced lemon orchards


Returning into town


A temporary roof to keep the building from deteriorating while it is being worked on


By the looks of it this scaffolding is not so temporary 


There is a fine line between a rustic look and a ruin


Narrow streets


A grand building next to the cliff


Lemon swag boxers


Lemon bikinis 


A fancy courtyard


At lunch we saw many folks going into this ceramic shop


Miss medusa


Mr. Pizza eater


The logo for our restaurant


Every plate is hand painted


They have the restaurant written on them


Fennel, anchovy and orange salad


Spaghetti in lemon sauce


With a lemon spritz


Anchovy is the theme.  Anchovy, capers and olives pizza


They have the really big lemons


Not bigger than my head


But pretty close


Non Solo Donkey


This looks crowded, but when a car is driving along the road it is crazy


Artist's cards


Squid indicating touchdown


A cure octopus


Puffer


Yes please


Lemon inside a lemon by lemons


Here comes a car


Lemon outfits for the kids


Very cute


Drinking on the balcony


The street widens enough to fit more people


The church


Help me, I am blinded by the sun!


Another crowd


Bell tower


Gilded decorations


St. Pigeon


Sir Surfer


The clouds are starting to roll in


Last looks


Heading onto the boat


Top level!


Smaller boats are cruising


A military escort?


And we are off


Smoke on the hill top.  Are the Barbary Pirates on the way?


Back in Salerno


Mini sailboat regatta


Busy on the promenade



 It has been 2 years and 321 days since we began our Migration