Monday, January 30, 2023

30 January 2023: The Tranzalpine Train to Greymouth to Arthur's Pass

 


We had to get up early to meet the train and board before the 8AM departure.  Luckily the AirBnB wasn't too far away.  Unluckily the Uber driver parked very far from the apartment and had to back up to get to us.  She was not an experienced driver and it took so long backing up that she caused her own back up.  The other drivers were not happy.  Regardless, we got the the train station only a little later than we had planned and boarded immediately.  It was a 5 hour trip so we got comfortable and  listened to the on board commentary.  We passed through the Canterbury Plains, the largest flat area in all of New Zealand.  It was created by the rocks and gravel brought down from the mountains and the glaciers over the eons.  There is actually a slope from the west to the east but it is gradual so the area appears to be flat.  Only 0.5% of this area contains native vegetation the rest is devoted to farming and ranching.  From the plains we threaded along a river valley deep into the mountains.  Eventually we reached Arthur's Pass which was the highest point in altitude of our train ride.  Immediately after Arthur's Pass we had to go through a 8.5 km tunnel that has a steep grade to it.  There are special accommodations built into this tunnel. First there are doors at each end that close and then fans pull a partial vacuum on the tunnel to remove the engine exhaust.  Since the current trains run on diesel and not coal it is less of an issue but still necessary.  Secondly there are additional engines that get attached to the front and the back of the train to manage the downhill angle of the tracks, 1 in 33.  It was the seventh longest tunnel in the world when it opened in 1923.  The entire trip has 16 tunnels, and four substantial viaducts the tallest being 250 feet above the ground.


All Aboard!


Our five hour train trip up on the monitor


They have some of the most serious hedge rows in the world, 30 feet tall and 8 feet wide


The sign says "Take a Break , Drive Fresh" or maybe it should say, "Take the Train"


The mountain range to the south


No sheep here, dairy cows rule these pastures


We will be passing through these mountains



Old steam engines


These engines look like toys, they are so small


It does not look like a steam engine


The tree is so full, it looks like it is growing along the ground


We are traveling along the Canterbury plains, the largest stretch of flat land in all of New Zealbnd


Mountains to the north


We are aiming for a river valley that cuts through the mountains


A much smaller hedge



First some creeks to cross over


We have reached the Waimakarini River watershed


It is a big river


Another serpentine riover


Blue glacial melt water



Big river valley


Logging along the route



The giant semi looks tiny in this rugged landscape


Looking back while going over a gorge



The canyon gets steeper the further into the mountains we go


I was up in the open viewing car early in the trip.  These other folks came in later but I held my ground at the window


The river takes a detour around this rock


The "braided" action of the river can be seen here with the multiple channels.  Much of the flow can be under the gravel so the river seems large in some areas and then small in an adjacent spot


Wider river here


This would be a nice river to float


Lots of big gravel bars to sit and sip


Getting up higher



More tunnels the higher we go



The fence along this bridge is a bit mystifying.  Metal then wood?  It the wood just temporary, it looks weathered and must have been here a long time.


You can see the wooden parts next to the iron parts


Tall bridge supports


And the river below



Another river crossing up ahead


Lively rapids on the river


Hemmed in tight in this canyon


Perhaps the railing is for the workers


Out of a tunnel and over a bridge.   I got in a pattern where I would watch the front of the train until I saw " the light at the end of the tunnel".  Then I would turn by camera back on and get in a position to take a picture.  Often it was just a snap or two and then back in a place where I could not get any shots.


It is dry in the rain shadow of the mountains


Clouds but no rain 


Some lakes remain where the glaciers had been


More lakes along the tracks


Wedged in between peaks


Big mountains all around


A foot path over the river made by the parents of three boys who drowned trying to cross



The river valley is wide but the channel is small


Deep valleys


Lots of gravel flowing down



We are reaching the pass


Everything funnels into a smaller area, the road the power lines and the train


Rounded mountains eroded by the weather


Trekkers are called Trampers here


Misty mountains


Some red algae grows along the river banks


Clouds rolling down the hills


Everything is getting greener




A small one lane bridge


We are in a very tight area


We are about to go down a serious grade in a tunnel and more power is required.  So there are extra engines waiting for us


The pass has been reached

A tiny little station


Top of the World


Adding engines to the front and the back of our train


A five minute leg stretch


Old train parts


The last bridge before the huge tunnel.  All the infrastructure is wedged in this little valley






It has been 239 days since we began our Migration