Sunday, December 3, 2023

2 December 2023 Istanbul: A Tour of the Real Blue Mosque, the Sultanahmet Mosque

 


We had read in the AirBnB listing that our place overlooked the Blue Mosque.  It does not and we will have to correct numerous posts in which we mistakenly identify the Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque as the Blue Mosque.  I guess Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque doesn't have the same ring as Blue Mosque.  The area was first settled in the 6th century BCE as a Greek colony, then came the Romans and the Crusaders and the Ottomans in 1453.  The Romans made this the capitol of the Eastern Roman Empire in Constantine's time and Constantinople held strong as the western empire crumbled.  However the city had been loosing population for some time when Mehmed II mounted a 53 day siege and bombardment that finally created in a breech of the walls.  The city was then controlled by the Ottomans for almost another 500 years.  Under Sultan Mehmed II the city was revitalized.  It became the capital of the Ottoman Empire and many people were relocated to the city.  Mehmed II made a decree that Muslims, Christians and Jews were to resettle the city and that 5000 households were to be deported INTO the city.  In 1459 he decreed that any Greeks that had left the city as slaves or as refugees would be allowed to return as free citizens.  Sultan Mehmed build the Grand Bazar at the terminus of the silk road and he built the Topapki Palace.  He rebuilt the defensive walls, a mosque, a citadel, a theological college and a public kitchen.   Each successive Sultan wanted to make their mark by building larger and larger Mosques.  But for a while money was tight.  The Blue Mosque was started in 1609and 1617 by Ahmed I.  It was the first big Mosque since 1574 as the Islamic scholars thought that constructing large mosques should only be financed by the spoils of war.  Since Ahmed I had not won any wars and had to purchase the buildings that were on the site of the new mosque he received much pushback.  Unfortunately Ahmed I died in 1616 before the completion of the mosque or slightly thereafter.  The grandeur of the building was such that it was immediately a hit with the public .  


The gates to the mosque from the exterior walls


The gates to the interior


Minarets are 210 feet tall and there are six in total


There are narrow stairs that the muezzin had to climb five times a day


Beautiful gold highlights all around the building


Many beautiful wood and mother of pearl panels


Along the side the second story gallery can be seen.  It is currently closed for renovation.


A huge circular chandelier that hangs low so that the candles could cast the light where they were needed 


One of the secondary domes with stained glass windows


Respectfully covering her head, Leslie brought her own scarf


The main dome,  two of the semi-domes and the third level of domes the exedrae can be seen behind us


On top is s semi-dome and the three exedrae that flank each semi-dome


Here the layout is easleir to understand.  One central dome, four semi domes flanking it and three exetrae flanking each semidome


There are many cables hanging down that are used to support all the lighting


Ostrich eggs were scattered throughout the mosque supposedly to ward off mice and spiders and to warn of eathequakes


Four huge pillars hold up the large central dome




Many stained glass windows 


Lots of bold colors


Windows everywhere


Great calligraphy  


There are four massive pillars supporting the main dome


The main dome is 877 feet in diameter and 141 feet tall (exterior height)


Around the main dome are surrounded by four semi-domes with arches. pendentives, in between the semi-domes


The three exedrae around the semi-domes


Here it can be seen all in one picture


Scriptures from the Quran are written on the pillar


Great panels


The calligraphy allowed for the script to fit into many shapes like this egg shape


The Sultan sent out orders for 21,043 tiles in over 50 designs starting in 1607 and by 1613 he forbade the tile makers to make any other tiles except for his orders


Floral motifs were the main design as representation of humans were considered idolatry


Tulips were big in Turkey and one of the Sultans was responsible for gifting tulips to a Dutch King in the 17th century.  Once the Dutch got ahold of tulips they went tulip crazy.  


The corners of the semi-domes are all covered in tiles


These are Iznik tiles and they were made in what is considered the height of the quality of these types of tiles


Many designs hade passages from the Koran


Fancy doors


Another door with wood and mother of pearl


Looking out the door to the exterior garden area.  During busy days people can gather in this area to pray


There are 260 windows in total


14 windows on each semi-dome


28 Windows in the central dome


The stained glass windows are very nice


All of the calligraphy was either verses from the Quran or were notable names such as Allah Mohammed, his four disciples or his two grandsons


Stained glass masterpieces


All lit up just for us


Lots of light coming in


What an impressive structure


A scale model  of something was encased in plastic


Little gold palm trees everywhere!


On the exterior were even more domes


Tulips were front and center on the fences along the courtyard


Minaret in silhouette 


Domes of the Madrassa


The other extreme of the ladies in attendance


It has been 1 year and 180 days since we began our Migration