Friday, May 9, 2025

4 May 2025 Salerno: Herculaneum Rediscovered


Herculaneum was destroyed by very hot pyroclastic flows.  Estimates of how hot these temperatures were range from 500 degrees to 1000 degrees Fahrenheit.   It resulted in instant death for the residents.   Ironically for the wooden structures, the wood did not burn but was carbonized by the high heat and the lack of oxygen.  So the wooden door jams are still intact but they are now charcoal instead of wood.  This presented problems for early archeologists as the carbonized wood could no longer support the walls they originally supported.  So the walls required additional external support as the excavations continued.  The history of the re-discovery of Herculaneum began with the digging of a well.  The farmer digging the well found marble pieces which is a rare stone for these parts.  So the Spanish Bourbon's got wind of this and they bought the well.  Then they started tunneling through the ruins, much damage was done, they got lucky in some areas but it eventually proved too inefficient to just tunnel about.  A few centuries later they decided to dig the city out from under all the rock and ash.


A suspended walkway takes us over to the town


The sea used to reach these boat houses


Dogs are allowed


Our first courtyard


No expense was spared in the column department


All the homes followed the same basic floor plan, atrium, courtyard, private rooms and some sort of a shrine


The shrines varied in size and detail


Each house was richly decorated with frescos


The artistry was evident in each surviving fresco


The fast food joints of the day.  Fires were lit under the holes and food was cooked to be served hot


This alluvium was very ornate


Remnants of the roof are still visible which explains how these frescos survived


The floors were also detailed


The paintings of windows on either side must have given the impression of more space


This was the meeting house for the freed men, the house of Augustales.  These newly freed men were trying to enter into the local society and had to prove their worth


The motto of the club


The main support beams are still in place 


The floors were made with broken pottery bits


A slave occupied  this room by the door and acted like a gatekeeper 


The courtyard


These frescos really make the room special


Two stories 


Mosaics on the floor


The colors are vivid


Another food stall area


Every inch is painted


A hallway into another house


Adorned with fine statues 


No need to step on the dog!


This is the edge of the excavations.  Above is the town that was built on top of the ruins.  Only 25% of Herculaneum had been evacuated and the existence of the town means it will probable stay that way. 


Painted archway


Each house is very linear, hallways lead through the entire house


Black mosaics


We are entering the atrium of the baths


This honeycomb arrangement of the bricks is more earthquake resisten


A kitchen area


An open are was the gymnasium


The visitors could work out 


Once the work up a sweat they go into the baths


first the tepidarium, medium heat


Stalls for storing possessions


A skylight


A basin for preliminary rinsing


A nautical mosaic design


The walls are corrugated to channel the moisture down the walls instead of it dripping on the patrons


Into the next room


Behind this rounded wall was the hottest bath


Into another house with decorative downspouts 


This one was very well preserved


Parts of a bed


A fancy alluvium to collect the rainwater and send it to the cisterns


Love the floor


The second story was decorated with mock columns and railings


A great look


My favorite cow


In the floor


On the walls


Blue on the top and draperies painted on the bottom


A public fountain


Heading to the edge of the excavations 


An oven


A grist mill for grinding the grain


Ovens and jars


Another oven, maybe for cooking flat bread on the side of the jar


Large frescos nearly intact


Nice arched area


Toilets


Two stories!


Flooring


When there was a nicer bit of painting on the wall they put up a frame to protect it


A well preserved corner


This was one of the nicesy villas


Very large and with a view of the sea


Produce in abundance


Fruit anyone?


Most of the rooms  had surviving frescos 


Carry a big stick and pee wherever you want to


This was the front entrance


Great design


The last house on this level.  The house of the Relief of Telephus


The columns still have the plaster overcoat


Hey there!


This is the relief of Telephus


The houses closer to the water were larger


Looking down to the lower level


A large marble proclaiming the great deeds of Marcus Nonius Balbus.  Notice the ramp behind, it was quite steep and uneven


Marcus Nonius Balbus himself


This statue seems the be half original and half crudely reconstructed 


This area seemed to be more commercial, large storehouses and warehouses



Less decorated


Back up and on our  way out


A press of some sort, perhaps the laundry


The jar is not a door


Part of the drainage and water catchment system


Where might this archway led too?  Deep under the existing town


These areas are only partyl excavated


The women and children were trapped in the boatsheds


Over 300 have been found


No time to escape 


One last display of a Roman boat.  This is the rudder


Sheathed in copper on the bottom 


The planks and ribs remain


This boat was in one of the baths and was being repaired


Very well preserved


One seriously bumpy taxi ride back to the train station


This is how folks are supposed to cross the train tracks


It doesn't work when the train has already arrived.  The man in a yellow shirt ran to get around  the train


Despite waving at the engineer, he missed the train


Cat on the hot train track



    It has been 2 years and 333 days since we began our Migration