Sunday, October 22, 2023

19 October 2023 Sarande: Albania is Country #76

 


Sarande Albania is a picturesque place, at least from the port it is.  There was little time for any touring the town as the excursion left early, came back at noon, when the all abord was at 13:00.  We had an early departure at 14:00.  So Leslie decided to explore the town while we all went to the ruins at Butrint.  This old settlement is a wonder with a past that rivals any of the old towns of Europe.  It is located where Lake Butrint, the largest lake in Albania, meets the sea.  There is ample fresh water in the lake and in the nearby springs so sustain a city and to resupply passing ships.  Legend has it that the city was settled by exiles from the city of Troy after its fall.  Evidence of the town dates back to the 8th century BCE with the first defensive walls being erected by the 4th century BCE.  It was a religious center dedicated to Asclepius the god of medicine.  Folks came from all around to the clear healing waters.  The Romans took over in 228 BCE when Julius Caesar and later Augustus developed the defensive walls that are stupendous.  The walls rise to 18 meters tall and are 9 meters thick in places.  Much of it was built by slaves who were freed when the walls were completed.  What followed was three centuries of Roman rule, then the Byzantines, the Huns, the Visgoths, the Slavs, Venetians, Bulgarians, Venetians, and Turkish rulers.  In 1912 the Turks were sent packing and Albania emerged from the first Balkan war as an independent nation, protected by the great nations.  Then in 1928 a short lived democratic government was elected.  The prime minister liked it so much that he declared himself King Zog 1, and ruled from 1928 to 1939.  He left the with all the country's funds one day before the Italians rolled in.  The Italians left in 1943 only to be replaced by the Nazi's.   After WW2 they became a Stalinist state and was an isolationist country until 1990 when the Communist Government was thrown out.  Just in time for another Balkan war.  They say the two headed eagle on the flag grew its second head because it had to be watching its back all these centuries.


Part of the recent building boom


Stretched out over the waters edge


A defunct Ferris wheel


The remains of a Synagogue.  In the 4th Century a ship containing Jewish slaves revolted and killed the crew.  They landed ashore to a welcoming population and co-existed for centuries.  


A replica of the mosaics discovered here


This was an olive grove in 1990


Nice morning walk 



Looking back at the Azzura


Mussel farming


Butrint Lake and mountains off in the distance


Fish farms 


Beautiful lake


At the outlet of the lake


Car ferry


My Fisherman


The Venetian Tower from the 15ht Century


Little fish popping up their heads




The start of the buildings


Three levels of construction


Larger stones from the first Romans


Later Roman construction


Built on the top of the 4th Century Asclepius shrine


The red arches


Perhaps the site is sinking or the water table has risen


The names of the freed slaves


This 3rd Century Roman Theater unearthed in this condition


The masks of the players


It was a healing center and no violent events were performed here


The steps up


Possibly part of the aqueduct


Many musicians performed here pre-covid


The baths that were build in the 2nd century BCE 


Elaborate stone works


Devine vines


the red bricks were from the second Roman period


Up on the hill


Shops were located here


Here the structure of the Roaman road can be seen


What is down here?


All of these structures are the same as they were when they were unearthed in 1928-1939


A pagan structure


Later co-opted by Christians and turned into a baptistry


A very elaborate mosaic lies buried below a layer of protective sand.  It unearthed on very rare occasions


Double chimneys 


Off we go down the path


Waterworks and arches were everywhere


The Great basicilla constructed in 6 the century CE


A fountain dedicated to the nymphs 2nd century CE



All of this still standing


Missing only its wooden roof


Still with mosaics 


Impressive structure


Tall and strong


1400 years old


The marshes along the edges of the lake


Clear water


The very tall wall


An entryway allowing only one person at a time


Stone roof


An earthquake proof construction style


Some cracks are appearing






The lion gate with the image of a lion eating a boar 


It is not made for tall folk


Huge blocks used to make the wall


The gate


Many steps to climb


Water came in via the aqueduct 


Looking down at the necropolis 


Back down at the gate


We are getting higher


A fine little boat


Stone walls reaching to the lake


Random column part


The Venetian Castle built 14th Century CE.  Re-constructed in the 1930's


A great view


Cannons at the ready


Looking good


Sister Kris


Defensive position


The two headed eagle of the Albanian flag


Not functional


Heads up


Headless


Were the heads looted?


The entire castle complex


Up at the top


Love the evergreens


The Adriatic


Don't get locked behind this gate



Where the lake meets the sea


Harvesting olives


Odd mix of building styles


Queen of the cruise





It has been 1 year and 135 days since we began our Migration